Installing a home EV charger: everything you need to know

Start with the electrical installation

For home charging, the deciding factor is the house wiring, not the car. With a single-phase supply you can install 3.7 kW or 7.4 kW. With a three-phase supply, 11 kW and 22 kW become options.

Have an electrician check whether your contracted power is enough. A charger draws a constant load for hours; if the fuse trips when it runs together with the boiler or the air conditioning, you need a power upgrade.

How many kW is enough?

For someone driving about 50 km a day, 7.4 kW is more than enough — a car plugged in overnight is full every morning. 11 kW makes sense for two-car households or high daily mileage.

Most cars do not accept 22 kW anyway; check your car's AC charging capacity before spending money for nothing.

What charging at home costs

Home charging is billed at your household electricity tariff. In EPDK's residential tariff in force since 4 April 2026, the upper single-rate tier (above 8 kWh a day) is about 4.86 ₺/kWh including taxes, and the night band of the three-rate tariff (22:00–06:00) about 3.26 ₺/kWh. At public chargers the network average in October 2026 was about 10.06 ₺/kWh for AC and about 13.68 ₺/kWh for DC.

If you will do most of your charging at night, the three-rate tariff pays off; you switch by applying to your electricity supplier, and your meter must support multi-rate reading. Use the car's or the wallbox's timer to start charging at night. If the household uses more than 4,000 kWh a year, the last-resort supply tariff applies and the unit price can rise.

Sources (as of 22 October 2026): EPDK: Tariff tables for electricity bills (4/4/2026)

Safety: not up for negotiation

• The charger needs its own circuit and fuse; it must not share a line with other sockets.
• A residual current device (RCD) is mandatory. If the unit has no built-in DC leakage protection, an external Type B RCD is required.
• Earthing must be measured. On a poorly earthed installation the charger refuses to work — that is not a fault, it is protection.
• Cable cross-section must be calculated for the distance; a thin cable on a long run heats up.
• Have a licensed electrician do the installation and keep the paperwork.

Installing in an apartment building

In a detached house there is no issue. In an apartment building, because common areas are involved, a decision of the owners' board is required.

Settle the meter question first: will the charger be connected to your own flat's meter, or will a separate meter be fitted? Drawing from the shared supply is the issue that causes the most disputes later.

Before going to the building management, prepare the unit's power, the current it will draw and the installation plan in writing. Arriving with a concrete file speeds things up.

Socket type and cable

In Türkiye, home chargers use Type 2. There are two options: units with a tethered (fixed) cable and units with a socket.

A tethered cable is more practical day to day — you do not carry the cable in the boot. A socketed unit gives flexibility for different cars and cables.

Frequently asked questions

Is home charging cheaper than a public station?

Usually yes. The residential tariff is clearly below public DC charging prices. To see the exact difference, compare your own tariff with current station prices.

Is a charger affected by rain?

Units made for outdoor use have an IP54 rating or higher. Check the IP rating before buying, and do not mount an indoor unit outside.

How long does installation take?

Half a day if the wiring is suitable. It takes longer if a new line, a new fuse board or a power upgrade is needed.